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Scientific References

SKIN SENSITISATION & BARRIER DISRUPTION

Cosmetic overuse as a trigger for sensitive skin

Duarte I et al. Sensitive skin: review of an ascending concept. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia (2017) 92(4):521–525. PMCID: PMC5595600

Lam M et al. Sensitive skin syndrome: Research progress on mechanisms and applications. Cosmetic Dermatology (2024). doi.org/10.1016/j.jdsct.2024.100015

Skin barrier disruption and allergic sensitisation

Irvine AD et al. Skin barrier disruption — a requirement for allergen sensitization? Frontiers in Immunology / PMC (2011). PMCID: PMC3279586

Sharma A et al. The dark side of beauty: an in-depth analysis of the health hazards and toxicological impact of synthetic cosmetics and personal care products. PMC (2024). PMCID: PMC11381309

FORMULATION PRINCIPLES

Better stability of water-sensitive actives

Martínez-Valverde et al., Cosmetics, 2022. Anhydrous formulations improve the stability of water-sensitive actives compared with aqueous vehicles.

Higher active concentrations

Torres et al., Cosmetics, 2024. Anhydrous systems allow a higher proportion of lipophilic bioactives by eliminating water as a formulation constraint.

Self-emulsifying bioavailability

Ponto et al., Pharmaceutics, 2021. Self-emulsifying systems enhance solubility and penetration of lipophilic actives.

Compatibility with skin's natural structure

Torres et al., Cosmetics, 2024. Lipid-rich vehicles integrate well with the skin barrier, supporting delivery and stability.

WILD-GROWN AMAZONIAN BOTANICALS

Andiroba Oil (Carapa guianensis)

R.L. de Sousa et al., Scientia Plena 17, 127201 (2021)
Academy of Romanian Scientists Annals — Series on Biological Sciences, Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)

Copaiba Oil Resin (Copaifera officinalis)

Dermatology and Therapy (Heidelberg) (2021) 11:2195–2205
Lee et al., Plants 2023, 12, 1619

Souza MP et al. Bioactive compounds isolated from Amazonian fruits and their possible applications. In: Studies in Natural Products Chemistry, Chapter 5. Elsevier (2023). doi:10.1016/B978-0-443-18961-6.00015-9

Cupuaçu Butter (Theobroma grandiflorum)

Fleck and Newman, Journal of Clinical Wound Specialists (2012) 4, 92–94
Aparicio-Álvarez et al., Frontiers in Sustainability (2022)
Esprendor et al., Scientific Electronic Archives Vol. 12 (6) (2019)

Murumuru Butter (Astrocaryum murumuru)

Moore et al., Frontiers in Pharmacology, Vol. 11, Article 785 (2020)
Sampaio et al., Food Chemistry 278 (2019) 208–215
General Information, Molecules 2021, 26, 3921

Pracaxi Oil (Pentaclethra macroloba)

Nobre Lamarão ML et al. Pentaclethra macroloba: A Review of the Biological, Pharmacological, Phytochemical, Cosmetic, Nutritional and Biofuel Potential of this Amazonian Plant. Plants 2023, 12, 1330. doi:10.3390/plants12061330

Teixeira GL et al. Composition, thermal behavior and antioxidant activity of pracaxi (Pentaclethra macroloba) seed oil obtained by supercritical CO₂. Biocatalysis and Agricultural Biotechnology 2020, 24, 101521.

Tucuma Oil (Astrocaryum vulgare)

Sagrillo MR et al. Tucumã fruit extracts (Astrocaryum aculeatum Meyer) decrease cytotoxic effects of hydrogen peroxide on human lymphocytes. Food Chemistry 173 (2015) 741–748

Machado APF et al. Brazilian tucumã-do-Amazonas (Astrocaryum aculeatum) and tucumã-do-Pará (Astrocaryum vulgare) fruits: bioactive composition, health benefits, and technological potential. Food Research International 151 (2022) 110902

Guex CG et al. Tucumã (Astrocaryum aculeatum) extract: phytochemical characterization, acute and subacute oral toxicity studies in Wistar rats. Drug and Chemical Toxicology (2020). doi:10.1080/01480545.2020.1777151

BASE BOTANICALS

Babassu Oil(Orbignya oleifera)

Komane BM et al., Revista Brasileira de Farmacognosia (2017), Vol 27(1):1-8, doi:10.1016/j.bjp.2016.07.001

Baobab Oil(Adansonia digitata)

Reis MYFA et al., Evidence Based Complementary Alternative Medicine (2017), PMCID: PMC5753019

Santos JAA et al., Evidence Based Complementary Alternative Medicine (2020), PMCID: PMC7532363

Hemp (Cannabidiol)

Akhtar N et al., American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (2024). Comprehensive review of CBD's topical applications — anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, barrier repair, and moisturising properties. PMID: 41008526

Oláh A et al. Topical cannabidiol in skin pathology. South African Family Practice (2022) 64(1):5493. PMCID: PMC9210160

Microalgae (Phaeodactylum tricornutum)

Mosxou D & Letsiou S. Exploring the protective effects of Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract on LPS-treated fibroblasts. Cosmetics (2021) 8(3):76. doi:10.3390/cosmetics8030076

Lee AH et al. Fucoxanthin from microalgae Phaeodactylum tricornutum inhibits pro-inflammatory cytokines by regulating both NF-κB and NLRP3 inflammasome activation. Scientific Reports (2021) 11:543

Vitale M et al. Clinical tolerability and efficacy establishment of a new cosmetic treatment regimen intended for sensitive skin. Applied Sciences (2024) 14(14):6252

Sacha Inchi Oil (Plukenetia volubilis)

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2019), PMID: 31441999
Zhang Y et al., International Immunopharmacology (2024), PMID: 38917521
Maya I et al., Cosmetics (2024), 11(6):226, doi:10.3390/cosmetics11060226

Safflower Oil (Carthamus tinctorius)

Jeong EH et al., Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology (2020), 30(10):1567–1573, PMID: 32522955; PMCID: PMC9728390

Khémiri I et al., Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity (2020), PMID: 33204394