Retinol has long been heralded as skincare's gold standard—a proven performer backed by decades of research for anti-aging, acne, and skin renewal. But in 2025, the skincare landscape is shifting dramatically with significant regulatory changes affecting this powerful ingredient. What exactly is retinol, why is it facing new restrictions, and are there natural alternatives that can deliver comparable results?
Understanding Retinol and Retinoic Acid
Retinol belongs to the retinoid family of vitamin A derivatives. When applied topically, it converts to retinoic acid through a two-step oxidation process. It's this retinoic acid that does the heavy lifting by binding to retinoid receptors in our cells, promoting cell turnover, stimulating collagen and elastin production, and reducing fine lines and hyperpigmentation.
Commercial retinol is primarily synthetic and produced through chemical synthesis using β-ionone as a starting point, or through biosynthesis that mimics natural production in the body. Recent developments have also explored microbial fermentation as an alternative production method.
Sounds good - so why has it fallen out of favour?
The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety concluded that while retinol is generally safe in cosmetics, overall population exposure to vitamin A may exceed recommended levels when considering dietary sources and supplements. Excessive vitamin A can lead to health issues like liver damage and has potential teratogenic effects.
In April 2024, the European Union published Regulation (EU) 2024/996, significantly changing how retinol can be used in cosmetic products. These new regulations limit retinol concentrations to:
- Maximum 0.3% in facial skincare products
- Maximum 0.05% in body lotions
- Similar restrictions for retinyl esters like retinyl palmitate and acetate
By May 2027, all non-compliant products must be removed from EU shelves. What to do? As always, nature has the solution.
Retinol alternatives: Plant Compounds That Rebuild Skin
Think of retinol as a key that unlocks collagen production in your skin. Scientists have discovered that two classes of plant compounds — terpenes and carotenoids — can work similarly, but often with fewer side effects.
How These Plant Compounds Work Like Retinol
Pine and Tree Resins: Compounds called pimaric acid and abietic acid fit into the same "locks" in your skin cells as retinol does, triggering collagen production that keeps skin firm.
Plant Oils and Fragrances: Both labdane diterpenes and sesquiterpenes (like beta-caryophyllene in copaiba oil) promote healing and collagen growth while reducing inflammation.
Orange and Yellow Plant Pigments: Beta-carotene—the compound that gives carrots and many Amazonian fruits their color — converts into vitamin A in your skin, essentially providing a natural form of retinol. Newer research is finding that shorter carotenoid molecules may have even more powerful skin-renewing properties.
These natural alternatives support your skin in multiple ways:
- They shield existing collagen from damage with powerful antioxidant protection
- They block enzymes that would otherwise break down your skin's collagen
- They signal your skin cells to produce more fresh collagen
- They calm inflammation that can lead to premature aging
What makes these plant compounds special is that they work through several pathways simultaneously, often providing gentler but more comprehensive skin benefits than synthetic retinol alone—without the redness, peeling, and irritation many experience with traditional retinol products.
Amazonian Botanicals Rich in These Compounds
Several Amazonian botanicals naturally contain high levels of these beneficial terpenes and carotenoids:
1. Buriti Oil (Mauritia flexuosa)
- Contains exceptionally high levels of carotenoids (1800 mg/kg)
- Rich in β-carotene, α-carotene, and γ-carotene
- Features high tocopherol content (1517 mg/kg)
- Contains 78% monounsaturated fatty acids, primarily oleic acid
2. Andiroba Oil (Carapa guianensis)
- Rich in limonoids (terpene derivatives)
- Contains gedunin, 6α-acetoxygedunin, and 7-desacetoxy-7-oxogedunin
- These compounds have been shown to promote collagen synthesis
3. Copaiba Oil (Copaifera officinalis)
- Contains sesquiterpenes including β-caryophyllene
- Shows anti-inflammatory properties beneficial for skin healing
- Promotes collagen synthesis and tissue regeneration
4. Pataua Oil (Oenocarpus bataua)
- Contains β-carotene (2.38 mg/kg) and tocotrienols (269 mg/kg)
- Rich in polyphenols including stilbenes
- Has excellent antioxidant protection for collagen
5. Pracaxi Oil (Pentaclethra macroloba)
- Contains β-carotene (8.84 mg/kg)
- Features high behenic acid content (10-25%)
- Shows wound healing and tissue regenerative properties
6. Bacuri Butter (Platonia insignis)
- Rich in terpene alcohols including linalool
- Contains xanthones (α-mangostin and γ-mangostin)
- Features garcinielliptone FC with skin regenerative properties
Looking Forward
The EU restrictions on retinol represent an opportunity to explore the vast potential of natural ingredients. Amazonian botanicals rich in terpenes and carotenoids offer promising alternatives that can potentially match — and in some aspects exceed — the benefits of traditional retinoids, often with fewer side effects like irritation and photosensitivity.
As the beauty industry adapts to these regulatory changes, we're witnessing not the end of effective anti-aging skincare, but the beginning of a more diverse and natural approach to skin health that harnesses the power of nature’s rich biodiversity.
Further reading:
DOI: 10.5650/jos.ess18143
https://theweek.com/health/retinol-why-holy-grail-of-skincare-faces-ban
https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules27092733
https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics14010207
DOI: 10.3389/fphar.2022.868461