Toutes les références sont accessibles au public par le biais des revues citées ou de PubMed.

SENSIBILISATION DE LA PEAU ET PERTURBATION DE LA BARRIÈRE CUTANÉE

L'utilisation excessive de produits cosmétiques comme facteur déclenchant de la peau sensible

Duarte I et al. Sensitive skin: review of an ascending concept. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia (2017) 92(4):521–525. PMCID: PMC5595600

Lam M et al. Sensitive skin syndrome: Research progress on mechanisms and applications. Cosmetic Dermatology (2024). doi.org/10.1016/j.jdsct.2024.100015

Altération de la barrière cutanée et sensibilisation allergique

Irvine AD et al. Skin barrier disruption — a requirement for allergen sensitization? Frontiers in Immunology / PMC (2011). PMCID: PMC3279586

Sharma A et al. The dark side of beauty: an in-depth analysis of the health hazards and toxicological impact of synthetic cosmetics and personal care products. PMC (2024). PMCID: PMC11381309

PRINCIPES DE FORMULATION

Meilleure stabilité des actifs sensibles à l'eau

Martínez-Valverde et al., Cosmetics, 2022. Anhydrous formulations improve the stability of water-sensitive actives compared with aqueous vehicles.

Concentrations actives plus élevées

Torres et al., Cosmetics, 2024. Anhydrous systems allow a higher proportion of lipophilic bioactives by eliminating water as a formulation constraint.

Biodisponibilité de l'auto-émulsion

Ponto et al., Pharmaceutics, 2021. Self-emulsifying systems enhance solubility and penetration of lipophilic actives.

Compatibilité avec la structure naturelle de la peau

Torres et al., Cosmetics, 2024. Lipid-rich vehicles integrate well with the skin barrier, supporting delivery and stability.

PLANTES BOTANIQUES D'AMAZONIE CULTIVÉES À L'ÉTAT SAUVAGE

Huile d'Andiroba (Carapa guianensis)

R.L. de Sousa et al, Scientia Plena 17, 127201 (2021)
Academy of Romanian Scientists Annals - Series on Biological Sciences, Vol. 11, No. 2 (2022)

Résine d'huile de Copaiba (Copaifera officinalis)

Dermatology and Therapy (Heidelberg) (2021) 11:2195-2205
Lee et al, Plants 2023, 12, 1619

Souza MP et al. Bioactive compounds isolated from Amazonian fruits and their possible applications. In : Studies in Natural Products Chemistry, chapitre 5. Elsevier (2023). doi :10.1016/B978-0-443-18961-6.00015-9

Beurre de Cupuaçu (Theobroma grandiflorum)

Fleck and Newman, Journal of Clinical Wound Specialists (2012) 4, 92-94
Aparicio-Álvarez et al., Frontiers in Sustainability (2022)
Esprendor et al., Scientific Electronic Archives Vol. 12 (6) (2019)

Beurre de Murumuru (Astrocaryum murumuru)

Moore et al, Frontiers in Pharmacology, Vol. 11, Article 785 (2020)
Sampaio et al, Food Chemistry 278 (2019) 208-215
General Information, Molecules 2021, 26, 3921

Huile de Pracaxi (Pentaclethra macroloba)

Nobre Lamarão ML et al. Pentaclethra macroloba: A Review of the Biological, Pharmacological, Phytochemical, Cosmetic, Nutritional and Biofuel Potential of this Amazonian Plant. Plants 2023, 12, 1330. doi :10.3390/plants12061330

Teixeira GL et al. Composition, thermal behavior and antioxidant activity of pracaxi(Pentaclethra macroloba) seed oil obtained by supercritical CO₂. Biocatalysis and Agricultural Biotechnology 2020, 24, 101521.

Huile de Tucuma (Astrocaryum vulgare)

Sagrillo MR et al. Les extraits de fruits de Tucumã(Astrocaryum aculeatum Meyer) diminuent les effets cytotoxiques du peroxyde d'hydrogène sur les lymphocytes humains. Food Chemistry 173 (2015) 741-748

Machado APF et al. Brazilian tucumã-do-Amazonas(Astrocaryum aculeatum) and tucumã-do-Pará(Astrocaryum vulgare) fruits : bioactive composition, health benefits, and technological potential. Food Research International 151 (2022) 110902

Guex CG et al. Tucumã(Astrocaryum aculeatum) extract : phytochemical characterization, acute and subacute oral toxicity studies in Wistar rats. Drug and Chemical Toxicology (2020). doi :10.1080/01480545.2020.1777151

PLANTES DE BASE

Huile de Babassu(Orbignya oleifera)

Komane BM et al, Revista Brasileira de Farmacognosia (2017), Vol 27(1):1-8, doi :10.1016/j.bjp.2016.07.001

Huile de baobab(Adansonia digitata)

Reis MYFA et al, Evidence Based Complementary Alternative Medicine (2017), PMCID : PMC5753019

Santos JAA et al, Evidence Based Complementary Alternative Medicine (2020), PMCID : PMC7532363

Chanvre (Cannabidiol )

Akhtar N et al., American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (2024). Comprehensive review of CBD's topical applications — anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, barrier repair, and moisturising properties. PMID: 41008526

Oláh A et al. Topical cannabidiol in skin pathology. South African Family Practice (2022) 64(1):5493. PMCID : PMC9210160

Microalgues (Phaeodactylum tricornutum)

Mosxou D & Letsiou S. Exploring the protective effects of Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract on LPS-treated fibroblasts. Cosmetics (2021) 8(3):76. doi :10.3390/cosmetics8030076

Lee AH et al. Fucoxanthin from microalgae Phaeodactylum tricornutum inhibits pro-inflammatory cytokines by regulating both NF-κB and NLRP3 inflammasome activation. Scientific Reports (2021) 11:543

Vitale M et al. Clinical tolerability and efficacy establishment of a new cosmetic treatment regimen intended for sensitive skin. Applied Sciences (2024) 14(14):6252

Huile de Sacha Inchi (Plukenetia volubilis)

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2019), PMID : 31441999
Zhang Y et al, International Immunopharmacology (2024), PMID : 38917521
Maya I et al, Cosmetics (2024), 11(6):226, doi :10.3390/cosmetics11060226

Huile de carthame (Carthamus tinctorius)

Jeong EH et al, Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology (2020), 30(10):1567-1573, PMID : 32522955 ; PMCID : PMC9728390

Khémiri I et al, Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity (2020), PMID : 33204394