SCIENTIFIC REFERENCES

Peruda formulations are built on peer-reviewed science. This page lists the published research underpinning our formulation principles and ingredient choices.

All references are publicly available through the cited journals or via PubMed.

SKIN SENSITISATION & BARRIER DISRUPTION

Cosmetic overuse as a trigger for sensitive skin

Duarte I et al. Sensitive skin: review of an ascending concept. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia (2017) 92(4):521–525. PMCID: PMC5595600

Jiang C, Guo C, Yan J, et al. Sensitive skin syndrome: research progress on mechanisms and applications. J Dermatol Sci Cosmet Technol. (2024);1(2):100015. doi:10.1016/j.jdsct.2024.100015

Skin barrier disruption and allergic sensitisation

De Benedetto A, Kubo A, Beck LA. Skin barrier disruption: a requirement for allergen sensitization? J Invest Dermatol. (2012);132(3 Pt 2):949–963. doi:10.1038/jid.2011.435

Alnuqaydan AM. The dark side of beauty: an in-depth analysis of the health hazards and toxicological impact of synthetic cosmetics and personal care products. Front Public Health. (2024);12:1439027. doi:10.3389/fpubh.2024.1439027

FORMULATION PRINCIPLES

Better stability of water-sensitive actives

Martínez-Valverde T, Crespo N, Suñer E. Open-label study to evaluate the efficacy of a topical anhydrous formulation with 15% pure ascorbic acid and ginger as a potent antioxidant. Cosmetics. (2022);9(4):74. doi:10.3390/cosmetics9040074

Higher active concentrations

Aguiar JB, Martins AM, Almeida C, Ribeiro HM, Marto J. Water sustainability: a waterless life cycle for cosmetic products. Sustain Prod Consum. (2022);32:35–51. doi:10.1016/j.spc.2022.04.008

Self-emulsifying bioavailability

Ponto T, Latter G, Luna G, Leite-Silva VR, Wright A, Benson HAE. Novel self-nano-emulsifying drug delivery systems containing astaxanthin for topical skin delivery. Pharmaceutics. (2021);13(5):649. doi:10.3390/pharmaceutics13050649

Compatibility with skin's natural structure

Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. Int J Mol Sci. (2018);19(1):70. doi:10.3390/ijms19010070

WILD-GROWN AMAZONIAN BOTANICALS

Andiroba Oil (Carapa guianensis)

Gheorghiță EC, Roșoiu N. Review: vegetable oil and butters, their anticellulitic effect, composition, mechanism of action and clinical trails. Ann Acad Rom Sci Ser Biol Sci. (2022);11(2):125–139. doi:10.56082/annalsarscibio.2022.2.125

Dias KKB, et al. Biological activities from andiroba (Carapa guianensis Aublet.) and its biotechnological applications: a systematic review. Arab J Chem. (2023);16:104629. doi:10.1016/j.arabjc.2023.104629

Copaiba Oil Resin (Copaifera officinalis)

Waibel J, Patel H, Cull E, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study on efficacy of copaiba oil in silicone-based gel to reduce scar formation. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). (2021);11(6):2195–2205. doi:10.1007/s13555-021-00634-5

Cupuaçu Butter (Theobroma grandiflorum)

Fleck CA, Newman M. Advanced skin care – a novel ingredient. J Am Coll Clin Wound Spec. 2012;4(4):92-94. doi:10.1016/j.jccw.2014.02.002

Aparicio-Álvarez CM, Espinoza-Salazar CE, Del Carpio-Jiménez C. In vitro antioxidant activity and in vivo photoprotective effect of Theobroma grandiflorum butter emulgels on skin of mice exposed to UVB irradiation. Front Sustain. (2023);3:682178. doi:10.3389/frsus.2022.682178

Murumuru Butter (Astrocaryum murumuru)

Pereira E, Ferreira MC, Sampaio KA, Grimaldi R, Meirelles AJA, Maximo GJ. Physical properties of Amazonian fats and oils and their blends. Food Chem. (2019);278:208–215. doi:10.1016/j.foodchem.2018.11.016

Dini I, Laneri S. The new challenge of green cosmetics: natural food ingredients for cosmetic formulations. Molecules. (2021);26(13):3921. doi:10.3390/molecules26133921

Souza PT, Pereira GSL, Almeida RF, et al. Comprehensive analysis of Amazonian oil and fats with different fatty composition: murumuru fat (Astrocaryum murumuru), cupuassu fat (Theobroma grandiflorum), and pracaxi oil (Pentaclethra macroloba). Food Res Int. (2024);196:115022. doi:10.1016/j.foodres.2024.115022

Nakatsuji T, Kao MC, Fang JY, et al. Antimicrobial property of lauric acid against Propionibacterium acnes: its therapeutic potential for inflammatory acne vulgaris. J Invest Dermatol. (2009);129(10):2480–2488. doi:10.1038/jid.2009.93.

Pracaxi Oil (Pentaclethra macroloba)

Nobre Lamarão ML et al. Pentaclethra macroloba: A Review of the Biological, Pharmacological, Phytochemical, Cosmetic, Nutritional and Biofuel Potential of this Amazonian Plant. Plants 2023, 12, 1330. doi:10.3390/plants12061330

Teixeira GL et al. Composition, thermal behavior and antioxidant activity of pracaxi (Pentaclethra macroloba) seed oil obtained by supercritical CO₂. Biocatalysis and Agricultural Biotechnology 2020, 24, 101521.

Tucuma Oil (Astrocaryum vulgare)

Bony E, Boudard F, Brat P, et al. Awara (Astrocaryum vulgare M.) pulp oil: chemical characterization, and anti-inflammatory properties in a mice model of endotoxic shock and a rat model of pulmonary inflammation. Fitoterapia. (2012);83(1):33–43. doi:10.1016/j.fitote.2011.09.007

Machado APF, Nascimento RP, Alves MR, Reguengo LM, Marostica Junior MR. Brazilian tucumã-do-Amazonas (Astrocaryum aculeatum) and tucumã-do-Pará (Astrocaryum vulgare) fruits: bioactive composition, health benefits, and technological potential. Food Res Int. (2022);151:110902. doi:10.1016/j.foodres.2021.110902

BASE BOTANICALS

Babassu Oil(Orbignya oleifera)

Reis MYFA et al., Evidence Based Complementary Alternative Medicine (2017), PMCID: PMC5753019

Santos JAA et al., Evidence Based Complementary Alternative Medicine (2020), PMCID: PMC7532363

Baobab Oil(Adansonia digitata)

Komane BM et al., Revista Brasileira de Farmacognosia (2017), Vol 27(1):1-8, doi:10.1016/j.bjp.2016.07.001

Hemp (Cannabis sativa seed)

Kuzumi A, Yoshizaki-Ogawa A, Fukasawa T, Sato S, Yoshizaki A. The potential role of cannabidiol in cosmetic dermatology: a literature review. Am J Clin Dermatol. (2024);25(6):951–966. doi:10.1007/s40257-024-00891-y

Tadić VM et al., Pharmaceutics (2021), 13(11):1919, doi:10.3390/pharmaceutics13111919

Olejnik A et al., Current Cosmetic Science (2022), 1(1):e080421192742, doi:10.2174/2666779701666210408111006

Callaway JC, Euphytica (2004), 140:65–72, doi:10.1007/s10681-004-4811-6

Microalgae (Phaeodactylum tricornutum)

Mosxou D & Letsiou S. Exploring the protective effects of Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract on LPS-treated fibroblasts. Cosmetics (2021) 8(3):76. doi:10.3390/cosmetics8030076

Lee AH et al. Fucoxanthin from microalgae Phaeodactylum tricornutum inhibits pro-inflammatory cytokines by regulating both NF-κB and NLRP3 inflammasome activation. Scientific Reports (2021) 11:543

Vitale M et al. Clinical tolerability and efficacy establishment of a new cosmetic treatment regimen intended for sensitive skin. Applied Sciences (2024) 14(14):6252

Sacha Inchi Oil (Plukenetia volubilis)

Soimee W, Nakyai W, et al., Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2019), PMID: 31441999
Zhang Y et al., International Immunopharmacology (2024), PMID: 38917521
Maya I et al., Cosmetics (2024), 11(6):226, doi:10.3390/cosmetics11060226

Safflower Oil (Carthamus tinctorius)

Jeong EH et al., Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology (2020), 30(10):1567–1573, PMID: 32522955; PMCID: PMC9728390

Khémiri I et al., Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity (2020), PMID: 33204394