Beyond the pretty package: what’s really in your cosmetics?

Journal
Beyond the pretty package: what’s really in your cosmetics?

Recent lawsuits highlight concerns over harmful ingredients in personal care products. With minimal U.S. regulations, consumers must look beyond packaging and use ingredient decoder tools to make safer choices. True luxury is quality, not just appearance.

Walking through the aisles of cosmetic gifts for Valentine's Day, one looking more luxurious and lush than the other - beautifully packaged perfumes, shimmering body lotions, and decadent face creams all promising to make us or our loved ones feel pampered and special. But beneath the elegant packaging and enticing fragrances lies a more serious question: Do we really understand what's in these products we're putting on our skin?

This question has taken on new urgency in light of recent lawsuits over cancer-causing ingredients in personal care products. Our skin, after all, is not just a decorative surface – it's our body's largest organ and remarkably absorbent. Research shows that women use an average of 12 personal care products containing 168 different chemicals daily, while men use about 6 products with 85 different chemicals. Most of these products are applied directly to the skin, where ingredients can be absorbed into the bloodstream.

While the gleaming aisles of exquisitely packaged cosmetics might look tempting, it's worth taking a moment to look beyond the beautiful packaging. The U.S. cosmetics industry remains largely self-regulated, with only 11 ingredients banned compared to over 1,600 in the European Union. This makes it crucial for consumers to be informed about what they're putting on their skin.

This doesn't mean we need to avoid all cosmetics or only choose "natural" products. Instead, it's about making informed choices. Using ingredient decoder tools, we can better understand what we're giving or receiving and make choices that align with our health goals.

Because true luxury isn't just about elegant packaging or premium prices – it's about quality ingredients that are safe and beneficial for our skin.

Several excellent resources exist to help decode those long, complex ingredient lists (INCI lists) on cosmetic products. Here are the most valuable ingredient decoder websites and what makes each unique. 

INCI Decoder (incidecoder.com)

  • Makes complex chemistry accessible with consumer-friendly explanations
  • Provides clear ratings for ingredient functions
  • Explains the science behind ingredients in everyday language
  • Strong focus on skincare ingredients and their roles

EWG's Skin Deep Database (ewg.org/skindeep)

  • Provides detailed safety ratings from 1-10
  • Highlights potential health hazards
  • Extensive product and ingredient database
  • Evaluates complete formulations as well as individual ingredients
  • Particularly strong for understanding health implications

CosDNA (cosdna.com)

  • Excellent for identifying potential acne triggers
  • Provides safety and irritant ratings
  • Features user-generated product entries
  • Particularly valuable for sensitive skin concerns
  • Clear breakdown of risks for acne, irritation, and safety

Hautschutzengel (https://www.hautschutzengel.de/search/index/type/produkte)

  • German INCI decoder specialised in skin sensitivity analysis
  • Individual INCI ingredients and search to understand skin effects
  • Analyses and rates cosmetics based on ingredient composition
  • Evaluates products for potential irritation and allergy risks including comedogenic level
  • Makes complex ingredient information accessible through clear explanations

Paula's Choice Ingredient Dictionary (https://www.paulaschoice.com/beautypedia-ingredient-checker)

  • Research-backed evaluations
  • User-friendly rating system
  • Balanced view of benefits and risks
  • Strong focus on anti-aging ingredients
  • Clear scientific references

EU CosIng Database (ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/cosmetics/cosing)

  • Official European Union regulatory database
  • Comprehensive information on restrictions and bans
  • Most technically detailed resource
  • Best for understanding regulatory standards
  • Shows which ingredients are restricted in the EU

 

 

Further reading:

https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_s_002.pdf

https://www.ewg.org/the-toxic-twelve-chemicals-and-contaminants-in-cosmetics

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10341863/pdf/ijms-24-10502.pdf

https://healthpolicy-watch.news/forever-chemicals-absorbed-by-skin-study-finds/

https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2024/12/03/mintel-reports-clean-beauty-impact-on-consumer-purchasing-behaviors/

https://www.forbes.com/sites/garydrenik/2024/07/18/beyond-the-label--consumers-want-the-truth-about-product-ingredients/

https://www.aboutlawsuits.com/benzene-forming-in-acne-products/

https://www.aboutlawsuits.com/mdl-sought-loreal-class-action-lawsuits-benzoyl-peroxide-products/